If you're tired of feeling like a giant on a tricycle, installing some klx 110 protaper bars is probably the single best thing you can do for your pit bike. Let's be real for a second: the stock handlebars that come on the Kawasaki KLX 110 are pretty much made of cheese. They're narrow, they're low, and if you so much as look at a dirt berm the wrong way, they're liable to bend. For anyone over five feet tall, the factory setup feels cramped, making it hard to really throw the bike around without your knees hitting the grips.
Switching to a set of ProTapers doesn't just make the bike look cooler—though, let's be honest, that's a big part of it—it completely changes the ergonomics. Whether you're a kid actually learning to ride or an adult reliving your childhood in the backyard, getting the right bar setup is the foundation of a good build.
Why Stock Bars Just Don't Cut It
Most of us who own a KLX 110 aren't exactly the target demographic the engineers had in mind. These bikes were designed for children, but they've become the gold standard for grown-up pit bike racing. The stock bars are made from mild steel. They're heavy, they vibrate a ton, and the "bend" is designed for tiny arms.
The moment you swap them out for some klx 110 protaper bars, you'll notice a weight difference immediately. ProTaper uses high-quality aluminum, which is significantly lighter but also way stronger. Aluminum has this natural ability to absorb some of the high-frequency vibration that comes through the triple clamps, which means your hands won't feel like they're buzzing after a twenty-minute moto. Plus, when you eventually dump the bike—and we all do—aluminum bars tend to spring back or stay straight, whereas the stock steel ones stay bent like a pretzel.
Picking the Right ProTaper Bend
This is where people usually get a bit confused. ProTaper makes a million different bends, but for the KLX 110, there are a few usual suspects. The most popular choice for adults is the XR50 bend. Don't let the name fool you; even though it says XR50, it's the go-to for KLX 110 riders who want that "tall bar" feel. It gives you a lot of rise, which opens up the cockpit and lets you stand up comfortably without hunching over like the Hunchback of Notre Dame.
If you want something a bit more moderate, you might look at the KLX/DRZ 110 bend specifically. This is usually part of their SE (Seven Eighths) line. It's taller than stock but not quite as extreme as the XR50 bend. It's great if you're a taller kid or a smaller adult who wants better control without feeling like you're reaching for the sky.
There's also the Micro Bar line, but keep in mind those are specifically designed for kids with smaller hands. They have a smaller diameter where the grips go, so you'd need the whole kit including the throttle tube. For most of us, sticking to the standard 7/8" bars is the way to go because they fit the stock clamps perfectly.
The Seven Eighths vs. Oversized Debate
When shopping for klx 110 protaper bars, you'll see two main sizes: 7/8" and 1-1/8" (often called "oversized" or "Tapered").
The 7/8" (SE series) is the easiest route. They fit right into your stock bar mounts. You just unbolt the old ones, slide these in, and you're good to go. It's the most budget-friendly way to get a massive upgrade in feel and durability.
The 1-1/8" bars (like the Contour or EVO series) are beefier and even stronger. However, the KLX 110 triple clamp has the bottom half of the bar mount cast into it. This means you can't just swap the mounts. To run oversized bars, you either need "universal" bar mount adapters that bolt into your 7/8" slots (which raises the bars even higher) or you need to buy an aftermarket top triple clamp. For a casual backyard thrasher, the 7/8" SE bars are more than enough. They're plenty strong and keep the cost down.
Getting the Install Right
Installing new bars is a pretty straightforward garage project, but there are a few things that can trip you up. First, getting the old grips off can be a pain. If you aren't planning on saving them, just take a razor blade and slice them off. If you want to keep them, use some compressed air or a thin screwdriver with some WD-40 to break the glue.
When you're mounting your new klx 110 protaper bars, don't tighten everything down immediately. Place the bars in the clamps, sit on the bike, and rotate them forward and back until they feel natural. Some people like them "pro" style (pushed forward), while others like them more neutral. Once you find the sweet spot, tighten the clamp bolts in a cross pattern to ensure even pressure.
One little tip: before you put your controls back on, make sure the bars are centered. ProTaper puts helpful alignment marks in the center of the bar. Use them! Nothing is more annoying than riding a bike where one side of the bars is half an inch longer than the other.
What About Cable Length?
This is the big question everyone asks when they go to taller bars. If you choose the XR50 bend, you're pushing the limits of the stock cables. Most of the time, you can make the stock throttle cable and brake cable work by rerouting them. Instead of running them through the guides, you might have to run them behind the number plate or on the outside of the fork tube.
However, if you want it to be perfect and "right," it's worth looking into extended cables. If the cables are too tight when you turn the bars all the way to the left or right, it can actually pull the throttle open or engage the front brake. That's a recipe for a bad time. Check your clearances at full lock in both directions before you go wide open in the dirt.
The Real-World Riding Difference
The first time you ride with your new klx 110 protaper bars, it's going to feel like a completely different motorcycle. Because the bars are wider, you have way more leverage. This makes the bike feel lighter and more flickable. You can muscle it through ruts and over jumps with a lot more confidence.
Standing up becomes a lot more natural, too. On the stock setup, standing up usually feels awkward because the bars are so low that you have to bend your knees excessively. With a taller ProTaper bend, your posture is more upright and athletic. This reduces fatigue in your lower back and legs, meaning you can stay out on the track or the trails for twice as long before you need a break.
Also, let's talk about the "cool factor." ProTaper bars come with that iconic bar pad. Whether you go with the classic black and white or something more colorful, it gives the bike that "factory" look. It's a small detail, but it really finishes off the front end of the bike.
Final Thoughts on the Switch
At the end of the day, a pit bike is all about having fun, and it's hard to have fun when you're uncomfortable or constantly fixing bent parts. Investing in a set of klx 110 protaper bars is one of those rare upgrades that actually delivers on its promises. It's a relatively cheap fix that solves the ergonomic issues of the KLX platform while adding a massive amount of durability.
If you're still on the fence, just go for the 7/8" SE series in the XR50 bend. It's the "standard" for a reason—it just works. Once you get them bolted on and feel the difference in the corners, you'll wonder why you waited so long to ditch those stock steel bars. Grab some new grips while you're at it, spend thirty minutes in the garage, and go enjoy your bike the way it was meant to be ridden.